Hannah Arnold

And finally, I arrived at the 0km marker looking out to the Atlantic Ocean - first to Finisterre (‘the end of the world’) and then onto Muxía (‘the land of new beginnings’) . I’ve finished this Camino at 972.5km with a slightly more tanned left leg, considerably more muscley thighs, a handful of bedbug bites, a phone full of new friends, a heart full of gratitude and a soul full of peace. Thank you to everyone who supported, cheered, encouraged and walked each step of this journey with me xxx

Walking into Praza do Obradoiro to be met by the magnificent sight of Santiago de Compostela cathedral was an experience that’s difficult to describe in words. I’ve never felt so much like I belonged to a place before or that the spirit of the place belonged to me. Tears, hugs, laughter, a sense of disbelief, of overwhelm, more hugs and an overriding sense of joy and gratitude floats around that square every single day. I felt incredibly privileged and proud to be part of it.

O Cebreiro - an enchanting mist-shrouded village of round thatched huts buried high up in the Galician hills. You almost expect a hobbit to jump out at any minute. I felt as if I’d stepped back in time about 500 years - apparently the inhabitants would sleep with their animals inside the huts for warmth! I was so grateful for the cosy log fires and a warm shower. The pilgrim mass in the ancient church was beautiful, as was the local Cebreiro cheese for dinner afterwards!

Aforementioned sleeping kittens, as promised (see below).

Yes that’s me drinking an excellent cup of coffee in an armchair in the middle of a field. The magical “El Jardín del Alma” (Garden of the Soul) is a random little oasis along the Camino somewhere between León & Astorga. It’s a peaceful haven that offers a jaw-dropping banquet of refreshments (local cheeses, homemade cakes, fresh fruit, omelettes…) on a help-yourself donation basis. Passing pilgrims play the guitar, tickle the sleeping kittens or walk the mindful labyrinth. It was hard to leave.

Some days are tough and cause you to question everything. I took this photo as a momento of one of my hardest days: 38km in relentless, torrential rain, walking alone. My feet were soggy, my bag was heavy, my hips ached and my shoulders were sore. Yet somewhere along this featureless road, I realised that despite reaching an edge, I felt more alive than I’d ever felt before in my entire life. I was filled with an indescribable sense of joy and light. I’ll never forget the magic of that moment.

There is a saying amongst pilgrims: “The Camino will provide”. Gerard is a gentleman from the US who set off one morning without his spectacles. He mentioned this to someone called Sarah who happened to know that I was staying at the albergue he’d left them at. So I received instructions to take them. On arrival at my next albergue, some other friends were coincidentally going to visit a church in the next village so offered to take them onto Gerard! Spectacle reunion! The Camino provides!

A real highlight of the Camino are the “donativo” albergues which offer shelter and meals for pilgrims on a donation basis. This is San Anton, a ruined monastery with almost a thousand years of hosting, feeding and in some cases healing pilgrims. There is no electricity or hot water but a very charismatic ‘hospitalero’ called Carmello who wore a leather cap, smoked a cigar, didn’t speak anything other than Spanish and had us all in stitches. It’s the albergue with the most stars, literally.

The Meseta. A vast and magnificent expanse of dry, dusty plains stretching from Burgos to Astorga. They say the first section of the Camino challenges your body, while the Meseta starts to work on your mind. Long stretches without even a tree in the distance, where else can your mind go but inwards? Some people dread the monotony and plan their distractions. I chose to walk it mostly alone and without headphones. I was filled with a sense of freedom, of opportunity and of limitless horizons.

Time for a mention of friendship. I have met some of kindest, most resilient and inspiring people along this journey. Diverse nationalities, ages, cultures and faiths all united by a shared experience. I have listened to stories I never imagined were possible. As we’ve walked side-by-side, we have cried, laughed, prayed, questioned, hoped and dreamed together. Often battling the driving rain and gale-force winds! These friendships are such a privilege and I will cherish so many magical moments ❤

Church doorways!!! I can’t get enough of them. This was the Iglesia de San Bartolomé in Logroño, casually dating from the 12th century. When I wasn’t contemplating doorways, I was greatly enjoying the absolute best pintxos (tapas) of the entire Camino… to be found down a bustling alleyway called Calle de Laurel (take note, foodies).

Cheeky bit of history! The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage began in the 9th century when the remains of St James were discovered in Galicia and a shrine was dedicated to him in Santiago de Compostela. Throughout the medieval period, it was one of the three most important Christian pilgrimages alongside those to Jerusalem and Rome. Once in Santiago, pilgrims would pay an ‘indulgence’ which would reduce the penance owed as a result of their sins… a sort of ‘get out of hell free’ card…

¡Hola a todos! Welcome to Alto de Perdón (Hill of Forgiveness) on day 4 outside Pamplona. A 2.5km climb up through fields of blackened sunflowers rewarded me with this iconic sculpture set against the backdrop of basque countryside. The inscription reads: “Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas” (Where the path of wind crosses with the stars). For me, this was a reminder of the importance of putting down the heavy burdens we carry and looking back to see how far we’ve come.

Welcome to France for the start of the Camino de Santiago everybody! Sunrise over the Pyrénées after a 5am start in a 10-person dorm with an orchestra of snoring… but worth it to witness this beautiful misty blanket over Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. it was then a 20km climb to 1,400m accompanied by the tinkling of cow bells and curious glances from wild ponies and curly-horned sheep. I felt triumphant reaching the summit knowing you guys are all with me in spirit. Legs are weary but heart is full ❤️

Thank you so much to everyone for donating so far ❤️ I’ve been so humbled by your generosity and support! This is me sending you all a big hug from my 8 day training hike of 103 miles / 165km along Hadrian’s Wall this week. Learnings included: triumphantly culling 1.5kg of weight, pudding (specifically sticky toffee) is critical to walking success and walking poles do serve as an effective means of self-defence against aggressive young cows. T-minus 2 days until the Camino de Santiago commences!